Ethical Clothing Australia

EEK! Has it really been over a month since posting last?

Whilst I haven't had time to blog, I promise I have kept busy- designing, sewing and researching.

I have received a promotion at work, so I'm now out of Production and into Pattern Making.

This is giving me a whole new range of skills to take with me when starting my label.

It also means longer days and not as much time to work on my label. Catch 22.

In the last 6 weeks, I met with Ethical Clothing Australia.

Ethical Clothing Australia assists local textile, clothing and footwear businesses to help ensure that Australian workers making their products receive fair wages and decent conditions.

It is very similar to the Fair Trade concept, though all manufacturing needs to be done in Australia. It all seemed ideal, however when looking at the costs, it put it all into perspective.

In order to follow the procedures of Ethical Clothing Australia - you need to pay the employees the award wage - approximately $16 per hour. A tailor jacket takes approximately 8 hours to sew, therefore costing approximately $128- And this cost doesn't even take into consideration the fabric, labels, packaging, accessories etc.

You then have to obviously add a margin on top of that, in order to make a profit ... and taking into consideration that majority of clothing labels add at least a 50% margin on top of the expenses, these garments are quickly becoming unaffordable.

I therefore have to rethink the supply chain for Enough.

These are a few fabrics that came from India. 100% Pure silks.

I wanted to incorporate the rich colours and serenity of India in this range.

It is a country that I have travelled to several times and love the intensity of it.

My aim was to demonstrate this in my range.

With some bold accessories, I think it will work a treat.

I found a jewellery designer at a market in Manly today who uses Gold grass. I would love to incorporate her work in this range.

Thanks to the wonderful photographer Gilbert Rossi!

My Winter 2011 range on some HOT models.

Thanks to Gilbert Rossi for the wonderful photos.

Dress#4

Dress #4 - an elegant, simple boat neck shape with a funky tie addition. The front and back bodice are a double pattern, face to face, to allow for the weaving.

Disclaimer: this is not the correct fabric.

I have run out of calico.

Dress#3

Dress #3 features an Elizabethan collar, with a flattering empire line and CF (centre front) button extension with self covered buttons.

The opening is something important to keep in mind from the very beginning, otherwise you'll find yourself adjusting the pattern later on in the show, which is much more difficult.

To get into a dress, the opening must come at least 18cm below the waistline, unless of course it is a lose fitted dress.

Please ignore the colour - definitely not the real fabric

In this instance, I knew the collar would be tight, so it was important to have an opening somewhere in the collar. While is looks like it should be at the front of the dress where the CF button extension is - you still wouldn't be able to get fully into the dress. I therefore have decided to insert a long invisible zipper down the CB (centre back). You only need 1cm SA (seam allowance) for an invisible zipper, so it is important to adjust the patterns accordingly.

This collar for this dress was much easier then the past couple of dresses. Literally a rectangle pattern piece, gathered into the neckline.

Depending on the fabric I choose to use, will determine if I use fusing or not.

I am currently working on my colour palette (finally), so stay tuned :)

Dress#2

Dress #2

Below are a few sketches of the one dress, using different dart positions, pleats and shapes in the bodice.

Below are a few trial runs of half the pattern - made in vilene.

Back

Front

This is not the material/colour I will be using but the shape is coming along. It's still looking quite ugly and clownish but I have to remember - Every garment is like an artwork and you can't dismiss it until its complete.

With this dress I have pivoted the darts into the waistline, added area and gathered.

I took out a 2cm gape dart, due to the lowered armhole.

With the collar, I firstly had to decide which collar to use. There are many collars to choose from... Stand collar, roll collar, radius collar or just a built up neckline.

Collars, are difficult to get perfect and it takes a lot of trial and error.

I tried a few different collars, concluding that the built up neckline was the best option.

The collar still needs perfecting, so I will need to work on that, as well as the skirt.

Fit done. Pattern complete.

Fit done. Pattern complete.

The Black draped fabric will be transparent, so the silhouette underneath will be visible.

The fabric will be light weight and cut on the bias, therefore more figure hugging and flattering.